KEDARNATH - A DREAM

Kedarnath Temple

I was very tired but still, I didn’t stop walking, with a heavy backpack on my back I completed 15 km of the trek and reached the very famous Kedarnath base camp. The holy temple was still 1.5 km away from the base camp. It was 6 in the evening and the sun had also said goodbye, now it was time to think what to do, either I continue my journey till the temple or I would take a rest tonight in the base camp because 1.5 km in mountains is like 5 km in plains.

 I was tired so I decided to spend the night at the base camp and in the morning will continue my journey towards the Kedarnath temple. There are many options available for a stay like huts, tents, and private camps. I got a bed in a sharing tent for just 300rs. The best thing about these places is that you can find so many langers arranged by different groups and people, so you don’t need to worry about food or anything, in fact, we also got chai. Believe me, I didn’t spend even a single rupee on food up there. After having a delicious kadi chawal and hot cup of tea I just bumped into my sleeping bag and kept thinking about my journey till now. Oh yes! I forget to tell you about that so let’s start from the beginning.

Yatris

I took a train from Agra to Dehradun and after that, I did not know how to go to Kedarnath. This yatra was a sudden plan because yesterday I thought to go to Kedarnath and today I was on the train, luckily I got the confirm ticket and now I need to figure out my trip route and resources. Around 6 o’clock I reached Dehradun and I was welcomed with a very heavy storm. The storm was so strong that I had to wait for an hour at the station. Finally, I reached my cousin’s place after the storm and sadly I got the worse news that all the Chardham roads were closed because of heavy rains and storms. Now I have to wait until the roads get cleared. The next day I decided to go to Mussoorie with my cousin, even though Mussoorie is beautiful but honestly, I don’t like it because of too much unnecessary crowd. but I have one free day and have to do something. We were having Maggie at Maggie's point and  I asked my cousin to join me for the yatra and he agreed, just one thing he needs to do is getting leave from his office which he easily got. So while returning from Mussoorie we did some inquiry about the routes and transportation for Kedarnath, someone told us that we will get sharing taxis from someplace called Rispana bridge.

The next morning we woke up around 5 o’clock and reached the place around 6 o’clock that the man told us it is like a taxi stand, we waited till 7 o’clock but there was no direct taxi to Sonprayag which is the last stop for taxis and private vehicle. We got a taxi till GuptKashi which is around 230kms from Dehradun the fare was 800 per person. We started our journey around 7:30 AM. Oh! I forget to introduce my travel partner, He is my cousin his name is Shushant Asthana and he works for the government.

Rishikesh Badrinath highway

The beautiful journey had started and I was very much excited about it. We reached Rishikesh but there was huge traffic in the city because morning times are usually very crowded we got out of the traffic to Badrinath highway. Rishikesh to Shivpuri, Shivpuri to Sirasu, Sirasu to Byasi, the sights were getting more and more beautiful. One side there is the holy river Ganga and the other side it is rocks and mountains it was like a melody. The driver was playing Kumar Sanu's songs, I remember he kept playing one song continuously after 5-6 minutes “Ab Tere Dil Me hum Agaye “ and it got me like whenever I listen to that song now it reminds me of my journey. It was a sweet and funny memory.

With the beautiful landscapes and Kumar Sanu's songs, we reached Devprayag. It is one of the most beautiful places in Dev Bhoomi Uttrakhand. The mesmerizing view of Sangam of the river Alaknanda and Bhagirathi to form the holy river Ganga. There are five Prayags in Uttrakhand and Devprayag is one of them. We had breakfast in Devprayag and after that, we started again towards Srinagar which is one of the biggest cities in Uttrakhand followed by another Prayag Rudraprayag. Rudraprayag is the place where the roads to Badrinath and Kedarnath are separated. Badrinath is about 156km from there.

By 2 o’clock we had reached our destination Guptkashi. The weather in GuptKashi was very pleasant, from GuptKashi we took a bus to Sonprayag which we got after waiting for like 20 minutes, and sadly we didn’t get seats. The roads were a little narrow and rough but the landscapes were outstanding. We can see mountains capped with snow, it looked beautiful. Around 4 o’clock we had reached Sonprayag, it is very late to start the trek, and also officials don’t allow anyone to trek at night because of Wild animals and dangerous routes. So we decide to stay in Sonprayag for the night. The rooms are very expensive in Sonprayag we paid like 2000 rs for just one night for a below-average room. In the evening we clear our yatra permits and explore the small town of Sonprayag.

Sonprayag bus stand

The next morning we got up early and started our yatra, but first, we need to reach GauriKund from where the actual trek starts. For Gaurikund, you will get a sharing taxi for just 20rs which is under government. Gaurikund is 5 km away from Sonprayag. Finally, after waiting in line for almost 30 minutes we departed towards GauriKund, after reaching GauriKund we had breakfast first, a hot tea, bread pakoda, and fruits. The weather was changing as if someone was turning the pages continuously. Finally, around 10 o’clock we started our trek with loud chants ( JAI SHIV SHAMBHOO – HAR HAR MAHADEV).

We kept moving slowly and enjoying the beautiful and mesmerizing views. Har Har Mahadev was echoing in our ears. After 4 km of the trek, we reached the first shelter halt of the route which is jungle chatti. We saw a waterfall on our way though there are many, this one is close and reachable, so we decided to climb a little towards the waterfall. The view from above was even more beautiful, we spent like an hour there. Suddenly we realize that we should start moving forward now. We trek for like 4-5kms more and had reached Rambara which is called the midpoint of the trek but still, 9 km of the trek is left. 

A view of Kedar valley from Rambara

The Rambara point is really beautiful you can see a complete Kedar valley from there. Let me tell you how I feel about that place. The place was looking like as it would be seen in a storybook, the sights of the valley, the sound of the Mandakini river, and the smell and taste of nature was just amazing and beyond explanation. The sky punched with clouds stretching like a dome. I could feel that cold sensation while crossing the bridge over the Mandakini river. The mixture of nature’s music echoed in my ears. That pure sense of inner peace was unmatchable. The Mountains seemed to have a party with the clouds, and trees were dancing in their rhythm. I can hear the chorus of the pleasant-sounding birds and the Mandakini. It is really a god’s own place.

Mandakini River 

The new trek from rambara was made after the 2013 disaster which is on the other side of the river, so we cross the river and started again. The new is a bit tougher than the older one. There was a main trek which is used by everyone along with the pithus and palkis, it was a bit crowded but we discovered another path which was shorter but steep and a bit dangerous and it was mostly used by locals. So we decided to take the mountain route because it is shorter and less crowded and most importantly we were away from pithus and palkis. Also, we can explore some unexplored beautiful places.

We enjoyed a lot in between rambara and Kedarnath and it was very memorable, we saw so many untouched beautiful landscapes, click some photos, tried the local drink, had Maggie and tea with other yatris. Also, we spend some time with baba and sadhus. There were many streams of water in between the mountains which were coming directly from the above glacier. Believe me, the freshwater of those streams are even better than packaged drinking water. It was so fresh and refreshing.

Burans juice (Local drink)

We move a bit forward and saw that the path ahead of us was full of mud and water, it seemed like it had rained earlier. Now the destination was only 3 km and suddenly it started raining. We waited at a tea shop until the rain stops. I had a small conversation with some locals they tell us some painful stories about the 2013 disaster. They also said that whenever there is heavy rain people get scared. And it was raining very heavy, we looked at each other with a funny scary smile.

When the rain got silent, we started again and praying to god for no more rain. We need to be more careful from now because the trek was very steep, slippery, and muddy. Finally, around 6’o clock we had reached the Kedarnath base camp and you already know what happened after that, so I will continue my story from the next morning.

We got up early in the morning because we need to reach the temple early, a long queue of yatris in front of the temple is waiting for us. We had a cup of tea and then we left for Kedarnath temple. We reached there around 7:30 AM and luckily we got free accommodation there for the night, thanks to my brother. We need to take a bath and we got a hot water bucket for 100rs it is very necessary because the water was freezing cold.

After getting ready, we join the other yatris heading towards the temple, the temple was slightly visible on the way, I can see the top and the astonishing snow-capped mountains behind it. Finally, we got there and the first sight was just amazing. Ok, let me try to explain it to you.

The first view 

The ash color temple was standing with mighty silence keeping snow-peaked mountain Kedarnath peak 22000 ft. at the back. The first view seemed to make us feel like reaching heaven, looks like more of a dream than reality. Looking at the mountains behind the temple feels like they want to tell you something. Well, I think it’s just impossible to describe the beauty of that place, it’s just not possible. I can write 100’s of pages on it but that will also not give justice to it. I can only say one thing that just go and visit heaven and explore and experience the beauty of Kedarnath.

So, we join the queue outside the temple and waited for our turn and finally we enter the temple around 10 o’clock. Darshan was good and I was happy. After the darshan, we take a look around and explore the temple and its architecture. We also saw the massive rock which is behind the temple and it is believed that it saves the temple from destruction in 2013 floods. Now, we are hungry so we visited langar and had delicious food and chai.

We got back to the temple and spend some time near it. While roaming there someone told us that there is a Bhairav temple which is situated at a distance of 500 m towards north from Kedarnath temple on a hillock. So, we decided to go there. From this temple, you will get a bird's eye view of the Kedarnath temple and the whole Kedarnath town. Furnished with flags and countless bells and a strange-looking trident (Trishul), the temple will fill you with a deep sense of calm and you can do meditation for some time here.

Bhairav Temple

Bird-eye view of Kedarnath town

We were enjoying the place and again the weather turns upside down And then the clouds gathered around and it started to rain. We got trapped there with no one around but we got a company of a dog. The weather remains the same for the next 1 hour we waited there and enjoyed the lovely tale of mountains. After the rain stopped, we go towards the other side of the temple where we can see the Kedar valley and helicopters, that view was marvelous.

After we returned down we spend some time near the Mandakini river, the water current was very high so we can’t go near it. But I can listen to the peaceful sound of the river. Time was also passing with each flow of the river and we didn’t even notice that it was getting dark. The sun was almost gone so, we got back near the temple for the evening Aarti. After the Aarti, we sat with some people near the temple and had a very interesting chit chat. The Mountains are very different at night, you cannot see anything but you can feel everything, Just close your eyes and feel.

Kedar valley

We got back to our room because it was getting colder out there and it was our final goodbye to that place. Before getting to bed we packed all our stuff so that we can start our return journey early morning, we need to reach Sonprayag as soon as possible because if we got late we wouldn’t get any bus or taxi for Rishikesh or Dehradun. It was my last night in Kedarnath and what a memorable trip it was.

After 2 days, I was on the train to Agra, and I kept thinking about the trip. And I know I will always remember this all my life, Kedarnath will always be close to my heart. Kedarnath is different and it gives you a peace of mind, it gives you a life-changing experience there just like I got, it is amazing, just amazing. My purpose in writing this blog is only to share my experience and I write it as it has happened. I hope you guys have enjoyed this.

Thank you!

                                                            

                                                            HAR HAR MAHADEV!